With gas prices rising and more and more homeowners trying to make environmentally friendly choices, maybe it is time to think about cordless lawn care equipment. Technology has come a long way from the electric mower with the cumbersome 100 foot extension cord of years past. Cordless models are cleaner, quieter, odorless, don’t require oil and spark plug changes and are easy to start.

Cordless Lawn Mowers

Cordless lawn mowers are much easier on your ears compared to their gas counterparts. The average electric lawn mower makes no more noise than a washing machine (about 75 decibels), while a gas-powered lawn mower can make as much noise as a motorcycle (about 95 decibels).

Besides giving your eardrums a break, battery-powered  lawn mowers pollute much less than gas-powered mowers. According to a 2003 Environmental Protection Agency report, lawn-and-garden equipment accounts for 5 percent of all ozone-forming emissions. The same report concludes that one hour of lawn mower usage produces as much air pollution as driving a car 20 miles.

Cordless lawn mowers eliminate the cost of oil changes, spark plugs, air filters and tune-ups. In terms of energy cost, electric mowers use only about $4 to 5 worth of electricity each year which is much less than compared to the amount of money spent on fuel for a gas-powered mower. And beyond replacing the battery (which can be recycled) every five to seven years and occasionally cleaning and sharpening the blade, there’s little, if any, maintenance!

As for getting the job done cordless lawn mowers are best for small to medium size lawns. The batteries usually can handle cutting up to 8,000 square feet on a single battery charge but if your lawn is lush and thick you may be only able to do 4,000 to 5,000 square feet.

Probably the biggest disadvantage of cordless lawn mowers are they are not self propelled so that can be a challenge if you have a sloping lawn to mow. They also have a hard time handling heavy or wet grass. They do have a higher upfront cost but you will recoup that cost quickly due to their low maintenance and low energy costs.

Cordless Hedge Trimmers

Electric hedge trimmers have similar advantages to electric mowers – less noise, less pollution, ease of use, and most come with a battery and a charger. If you have only a few hedges or shrubs to trim manual clippers are your best bet, anything else you’ll need something with more power.

The most powerful models are 18V and will last 30-40 minutes while in use and will recharge in less than 3 hours. Look for a light weight model (6 to 7lbs) so your arms don’t fatigue after a few minutes on the job. Electric trimmers do a great job on small and medium size branches (less than ¾” thick).

Cordless String Trimmers

Cordless trimmers are great for adding the finishing touches to your landscape. They give you the power to trim along fences, your house, and landscape beds without the hassle of an extension cord. The best cordless trimmers are again light weight (6-7 lbs) and will run 20-30 minutes once charged. If you have a large yard to maintain you may want to keep an extra battery charged. Some of the newer models cut faster than their traditional gas powered counterparts.

If you just need to trim or edge a well-kept lawn, a cordless trimmer offers the most convenience, but it won’t work well on tall grass or weeds.

Cordless Garden Cultivator

Cordless garden cultivators make weeding and aerating garden beds a breeze. They also preps beds for planting and prepping dry and dead spots for seeding. Many gardeners prefer the small garden cultivator, to a rotary culitvator because it can get into tight spots and is usefull in small beds. Batteries last about 20 to 30 minutes on most models and their lightweight (9 to 10 lbs) means you won’t fatigue quickly when working.

For impacted soil or heavier work, a rotary cultivator is your best bet.

Watering is the key to a healthy lawn and is the most important during the summer. Summertime is when you lawn is least likely to get plenty of water from rain so make sure your lawn is getting 1 to 1.5 inches of water a week. Some grass varieties may need a bit more, so if you notice the grass beginning to turn yellow, up the water to 1.5 to 1.75 inches. Buy a rain gauge or mark an old soup can to make sure you lawn is getting adequate water from watering and rainfall.

A deep watering once or twice a week is better than watering every day. The easiest way to see if your lawn needs water is to walk across it. If you leave footprints it is time to water. The best time to water is between 4 am and 8 am, this way you will not lose water due to evaporation and the water will have time to soak into the ground before the mid day heat. Never water your lawn at night, the lawn will stay wet for a long period of time which can promote disease and affect the health of your lawn.

Mowing your lawn to the proper height is another key to a healthy lawn during the summer. Many lawns experience “burning” or “yellowing” patches due to the heat of the sun. To protect your lawn’s roots from the heat and to shade out weeds, leave your grass higher than you normally would - 2 to 4 inches depending on the grass type- this will also prevent the soil from drying out too quickly in between waterings.

A general rule for when to mow is to never take off more than 1/3 of the height. During the summer you will tend to mow more often then during the spring and fall months. Mowing during the cooler morning or evening hours is better not only for you but also for your lawn. Also remember to change the direction you mow periodically to avoid the “washboard” effect.

Finally, keep your lawn mowers blades sharp. The reason for sharpening lawn mower blades is that dull blades have a tendency to rip grass blades instead of cutting cleanly, leaving grass susceptible to diseases.

Japanese Beetles are a common problem for many gardeners June through Labor Day. While you are hoping to enjoy your beautiful bounty of summer flowers, vegetables, grass and fruit trees so are the beetles. Japanese Beetles are brilliantly colored, oval, and less than half an inch long. Wing colors are coppery with fine lines that run the length of its wing cases, and the body is a beautiful metallic green. Adults feed on flowers and leaf tissue during the day.

Japanese beetles are the most widespread turf-grass pests in the United States. Native to Japan, these bugs were first discovered in the U.S. in 1916 in New Jersey. With no natural predators on this continent, these beetles have been slowly spreading across the country over the past few decades.

Usually you will see multiple bugs enjoying your plants. If you can’t see the bugs, you can tell you have Japanese Beetles by the lacey pattern they leave behind after eating the foliage in-between the leaf veins. Another tell tale sign are C-shaped patches in your yard. Pull the grass back and look for the grubs, which grow from ½”-1″ long, usually they are eating the roots.

How to Get Rid of Them

There are a few simple people and pet friendly ways to get rid of Japense Beetles.

Drown them – if the infestation is not bad, walk around your garden one morning with a bucket of water with a bit of soap and drown the little buggers.

Neem Oil sprays (link to Neem Oil spray) - A broad spectrum insecticide, miticide and fungicide Neem oil can effectively control Japanese Beetles (and many other pests). It can be used on all plants including roses, perennials, annuals, trees, shrubs, flowers, fruits, vegetables and house plants. Following manufacturer’s directions spray on your plants leaves every 1 to 2 weeks depending on how much rain your area has received.

Milky Spore (link to Milky Spore within site) – a new and increasingly popular product for getting rid of Japanese Beetles grubs. It contains a naturally occurring host specific bacterium that kills the grubs after they ingest it within 7 to 21 days. As the grubs decompose in your grass or lawn bed more Milky Spore bacteria are redistributed in the soil for other grubs to eat. The cycle can continue killing grubs for 3-10 years.

Pheromone traps – don’t be tempted to buy these at your local garden supply shop. All it takes is one beetle to attract other beetles (from up to 5 miles away) to look for food, mates, and a suitable place to lay eggs. While Pheromone traps may trap beetles they are also attracting more to your garden.

Water is critical for the health of your grass. Without enough water, grass can’t get the nutrients it needs for reproduction and growth. In fact most grasses do best with deep watering (1 to 1.5 inches including rainfall) once a week rather than a light watering everyday. Buy a rain gauge or mark an old soup can to make it easier to tell how much water your lawn needs every week.

Myth #2: Lawns are meant to be cut short
Mowing grass too short stresses the plants, especially in the heat of summer. Short grass also means the soil will dry out too quickly. Taller grass also forms a natural barrier to crowd out weeds. To be attractive, a lawn needs to be neat and even, not short. So raise the blades on your lawnmower 1 inch above your usual setting and give frequent trims for a groomed look.

Myth #3: To have the best looking lawn, you should fertilize monthly
With good soil, most lawns only need fertilizing once or twice a year depending on the variety. Even for a malnourished lawn, fertilizing every six to eight weeks is probably enough. Learn whether you have a cool-season or warm season grass (add link here). Heat-loving varieties should be fertilized in high summer; cool varieties in early spring and fall.

Myth #4: Regular spraying keeps pests off
Did you know that lawn owners use more pesticide per acre than farmers? All that spraying wreaks havoc on the environment, and it usually backfires. That’s because pesticides kill beneficial insects as well as pests, and upset your lawn’s natural ecosystem. When the next wave of pests arrives, your grass is defenseless. So treat pest outbreaks only if they occur, and always use the most natural, least toxic remedy available. Many times beneficial insects such as the ladybug or beneficial nematodes can remedy the problem without the use of pesticides.

Myth #5: Grass is weak; weeds are strong.
Along with pesticides, many lawn owners apply weed controls regularly, believing that even one weed can spell disaster. In fact, grass is very competitive. If you keep your lawn healthy, it will crowd out many weeds–including the dreaded crabgrass—in a season or two. If you follow our simple lawn care advice every season you will have healthy grass that will form a tight knit weave and force out weeds!

Myth #6: Put on your spiked shoes and aerate your lawn.

You may burn a few calories walking around your lawn but that is the only benefit you or your lawn will see. Whether you create your own spiked shoes or purchase some, this is not a beneficial method of aerating your lawn. If you have a lawn that is compacted or has too much thatch, you need to remove soil plugs, not just make holes. You either need to core cultivate (punch holes and bring small soil cores out of the ground) or dethatch with a power rake.

Myth #7: Don’t leave grass clippings on the lawn after mowing, it creates thatch

Grass clippings do not create thatch. Clippings are 85-90 percent water and they break down quickly. Leaving fine grass clippings on your lawn as a natural fertilizer is fine – that’s how a mulching mower works. Clippings contribute nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to the lawn. Thatch is a combination of dead plant stems and roots that accumulate at the soil level in your grass. To tell if your lawn needs dethatching, cut out a small section of the turf that includes the soil beneath it. If the dead grass layer is more than a half-inch thick, it’s time to dethatch. (add link here on how to dethatch).

Myth #8: If you don’t want a dead lawn, defy water restrictions and sneak in a bit of watering during a drought.

Remember, your lawn needs about an inch of rain/water per week, not a sip every now and again. If your area is in the midst of a drought and issues a watering ban, let your lawn go dormant instead of sneaking in a few late night waterings. Not only does night watering promote disease because the grass does not have a chance to dry out, but light waterings promote shallow root growth making them more likely to dry out. Your grass will look dry and may even turn straw colored when it goes dormant, but it will likely spring back to life when the rains come again.

Myth #9: If the chemical label says one teaspoon per gallon will get rid of weeds, doubling the dose will do an even better job.
Never, ever apply more than the specified amount of chemical or fertilizer to your weeds or lawn. If one application doesn’t eliminate the problem, reapply later according to the directions. Clover, creeping Charlie and other tough weeds often take two or three applications to be eliminated. A single, excessive application can damage grass, trees, shrubs and garden plants and poses risks to people, children and animals. Follow label directions carefully.

Myth #10: Nature takes care of its self; fertilizer is not needed.
All grass needs a low level of supplemental nutrients. The lawn is not a natural environment. When clippings are collected, the soil is robbed of nutrients that should be recycled back into the soil. Most lawns are grown on compacted, urban soils that are not ideal for growth. Nutrient supplements in the form of fertilizer are needed.

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Crabgrasses can be controlled with pre-emergent herbicides that interfere with a key enzyme when a seed germinates. As their name suggests, preemergent herbicides kill crabgrass at a specific time: before its seedlings emerge. If they are applied to the soil too early, they get washed too deep into the soil by rainwater. If they are applied too late the key enzyme inhibited is no longer active.

So how do you know the proper time? In the Northeast and Northwest, crabgrass germination coincides approximately with the blooming of lilac bushes and forsythia bushes. In the South, preemergent herbicides application should coincide with the bloom time for dogwoods, redbuds and azaleas. In the Southwest, crabgrass can start germinating as early as mid-January if the winters have been warm. If you’re still not sure, a good rule of thumb is crabgrass will germinates when soil temperatures reach 50° to 55°F for at least 3 days.

Usually one application put down at the proper time gives control. If an application is made very early in the season, a second application may be necessary during mid- to late June to kill later germinating crabgrass. Always follow pre-emergent herbicide applications with one-quarter to one-half inch of water. This helps move the herbicide to the soil surface where it provides the control. Also, watering in the herbicide may reduce your exposure to the product.

What should you do if you miss the window of opportinuty of applying pre-emergent herbicides? Old fashioned weeding is probably the best method of crabgrass control once it has germinated. Hand-pulling small patches of crabgrass before it goes to seed is the quickest and easiest way to control it. To facilitate weeding, water the lawn first (weeds are more easily extricated from wet soil). Then remember to apply a pre-emergent herbicide next Spring.

Hand weeding is not the best cure for dandelions because the more you try to weed them up, the faster they grow. The taproot can grow up to 10 to 15 feet long, but most grow 6 to 18 inches and unless you remove it completely, it will regenerate.

Special dandelion knives and similar specialized tools are available (link to tools) for removing individual weeds and their roots while minimizing soil disturbance (known as grubbing). It is best to remove the plants before they set seed to reduce the potential for further invasion by this weed. To facilitate weeding, water the lawn first (weeds are more easily extricated from wet soil).

A general weed & feed will kill broadleaf weeds (link to weed & feed), such as dandelions once they have germinated. Look for ones that contain 2,4-D, triclopyr, MCPA, or mecoprop. Despite what the package may say, early fall is the best time to kill dandelions with herbicides. Since their leaves die back in winter, it is through their roots that the plants live on. In early fall, nutrients are transferred from the dandelion leaves down to the roots. Herbicides applied during this time are absorbed by the leaves and passed on to the roots, following the same path down as the nutrients.

For at least 2-3 days prior to applying herbicides, don’t mow the lawn. The bigger the surface area of the dandelion leaves, the more effective your application can be. Likewise, following the application of herbicide, wait at least 2-3 days before mowing, to allow time for the herbicide to be transferred to the roots.

Promoting lawn health is the best method of dandelion control. One of the easiest things to do is to mow “high”, leaving the lawn grass at a height of 2 1/2″-3″. This will allow the lawn grass to “protect its own turf” better, depriving dandelions and other weeds of the light they need.

Tomatoes are easy to grow from seed (65° F or 18° C to germinate). But most nurseries provide a wonderful variety in early spring. Unless you want to grow a rare heirloom variety, nursery grown plants are your best bet if you want to spare yourself time and trouble.

A few weeks before you are set to plant (check the last frost date for your area at U.S. Climate Normals) cover the planting area with plastic. Tomatoes love heat and the warmer soil will mean earlier tomatoes. Plant tomatoes approximately 2 to 3 feet apart from each other and bury the tomato plants deeper than they come in the pot, all the way up to a few top leaves. Tomatoes are able to develop roots all along their stems and planting them deeper means they will develop a strong and vigorous root system.

Mulch your plants after the ground has had a chance to warm up. Mulching does conserve water and prevents the soil and soil born diseases from splashing up on the plants, but if you put it down too early it will also shade and therefore cool the soil.

Once tomatoes are in the ground, uniform watering is the key to nice fruit. A good rule of thumb is about ½ inch per week during the dry season. Even watering can prevent leaf-end roll, blossom end-rot and “cat-facing”, those misshapen crags and cracks on the stem end of the fruit. Once the fruit begins to ripen, lessening the water will coax the plant into concentrating its sugars.

Staking keeps the plant and the fruit off the ground and ensures the plant receives better air circulation around their leaves and fruits, which generally lessens disease. Place the stake 3 to 4 inches from the base of the plant on the side away from the first bloom cluster to prevent trapping the fruit between the plant and the stake. Tie the stem to the stake every 12 to 18 inches over the summer as the plant grows.

Pinch and remove side shoots or “suckers” that develop in the crotch joint of two branches. They won’t bear fruit and will take energy away from the rest of the plant. Another favorite tip of tomatoes growing veterans is to remove the stems below the first flower cluster. This helps prevent fungal disease, one of the biggest threats to healthy tomatoes. But go easy on pruning the rest of the plant. You can thin leaves to allow the sun to reach the ripening fruit, but it’s the leaves that are photosynthesizing and creating the sugars that give flavor to your tomatoes.

Tomatoes should be harvested when they are fully ripened and just starting to soften. Once picked, store tomatoes in dark, warm conditions. DO NOT EVER REFRIGERATE TOMATOES!

Try growing tomatoes this year and you’ll never go back to their store bought counterparts again during the summer season!

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gardening tips

The most common cause of burned grass is too much nitrogen, often caused by excess fast release nitrogen fertilizer or dog urine. Here are a few things to keep in mind when applying fertilizer to your lawn and/or if you are a pet owner.

Fertilizing

Fertilizing is an important lawn care practice, as it influences grass color, ability to recover from stress, and helps prevent weed invasions and disease. But how much fertilizer is enough for your lawn?

Nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) are the three major nutrients needed by lawns. Percent nitrogen (by weight) is always the first of three numbers on the fertilizer bag, followed by phosphorus and potassium. For example, a 24-6-12 fertilizer contains 24 percent nitrogen. In most cases, a rate of 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet is suggested for each fertilizer application to the lawn. Recommended ratios of N-P-K for lawn fertilizers include 3:1:2 or 4:1:2.

Another important factor is choosing fast-release or controlled-release nitrogen fertilizer. For lawns, fertilizers containing controlled-release nitrogen sources are suggested for most applications. While it is more expensive and you may not see a quick color change in the grass (greening), controlled-release nitrogen will not cause grass to burn.

Dog Urine

Because dog urine is very high in nitrogen, when a dog urinates, it is similar to pouring liquid fertilizer on the lawn. A little fertilizer is good for the grass, but an excess causes burned grass. If Fido is leaving unsightly brown spots on your lawn, here are number of things you can do to prevent it.

Saturate the urinated spots with water. After your dog urinates, pour several cupfuls of water on the spot to dilute the urine.

Feed a high quality dog food that does not exceed the pet’s protein requirement. High quality foods have more digestible protein sources that are more completely utilized by the pet and create less nitrogenous waste in the urine.

Train your dog to urinate in a location that is less visible.

Reduce the stress on your lawn by not over- or under-fertilizing and by providing frequent watering.

Feed your dog a supplement like Drs. Foster and Smith Lawn Guard, or apply a product to the lawn such as Dogonit Lawn Treatment. These products bind and neutralize the nitrogen in your pet’s urine.

What to do if you have burned grass

Unfortunately once the burn marks show up there is nothing you can do but replace the grass. The best course of action is to cut out the area, remove 1 inch of soil, add new soil and seed, or sod, depending on which would blend in faster, which is usually the seed. If you ever spill fertilizer over a small area, rake it up and remove as much as possible, then water the area heavily for several weeks.

Native to China, Japan, Europe and North America, peonies have long been popular for centuries. Peonies were first used for their medicinal properties before becoming popular in ornamental gardens. Peonies were thought to relieve pain, cool the blood, cure gall stones, control epileptic seizures and have antibacterial properties.

There are three types of peonies – tree peonies, herbaceous peonies and intersectional peonies.

Tree peonies have woody above ground stems that remain throughout the year, much like a small shrub. The leaves however are deciduous and fall each autumn.

Herbaceous peonies die back to the ground each autumn. They are grouped into five types according to flower shape: single, semidouble, double, Japanese, and anemone.

Intersectional peonies are the result of crossing herbaceous and tree peonies. Like herbaceous peonies they die back to the ground each year. Their foliage and flowers however are reminiscent of tree peonies.

Peonies grow best in cool climates, however peonies are generally considered to grow well into USDA Hardiness Zone 8. The cold weather allows them to set their buds and flower. To encourage flowering, plant on a northern exposure and do not mulch in the winter. Peonies grow best in full sun, but will tolerate light shade. Flower size will decrease due to root competition from nearby trees and shrubs. The planting site should have protection from strong winds, but be well aerated to reduce diseases problems. Peonies prefer a well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Roots will quickly rot in poorly drained soil; consider planting in a raised bed.

The best time to plant peonies is in early fall — September and October are ideal. If planted in the spring, they may not bloom for a year or two. Follow the directions from the grower and make sure to amend the soil before planting.

To produce larger flowers, a practice known as disbudding is recommended. The terminal bud on each stem tip is left and all side buds are removed. This should be done as soon as the buds are visible. To prevent the large flowers from breaking or bending over during a strong wind or rain, plants should be staked.

Remove flowers as soon as they fade to prevent seed development, which uses up needed food reserves. The faded flower should be removed just below the flower, leaving as much foliage as possible. Cutting flowers for enjoyment in the home can also reduce the flowering in future years. Do not cut more than one-third to one-half of the flowers for cut flowers and leave as much foliage on the plant as possible.

In the fall, after a heavy frost, remove and destroy the stems of garden peonies down to 3 inches from the soil surface to eliminate the possibility of the fungal diseases overwintering. Tree peonies should not be cut back in the fall.

Peonies don’t like to be moved. It can take years for a peony to recover from the shock of being moved. If your peony was planted or re-plants in the past four years, it just may be feeling sullen. It will flower eventually, so be patient.

Although peonies can be a bit difficult to grow, once you find a spot that makes them happy they are long lived and are affected by few pests and diseases. You will enjoy the large, showy flowers for years to come.